Wool, Twill and Corduroy in Headwear
The material a cap is made from decides three things: how well it holds its shape, how it behaves in heat, and how it ages. Everything else is preference.
Structured caps need a fabric with body. Unstructured ones do not, which is why the softest silhouettes in any line are almost always cotton.
Wool and wool blends
The traditional structured-cap material. Holds shape well, has visible texture, and ages into something rather than just wearing out. Warmer than the alternatives, which matters more in Houston than in Detroit.
Wool needs the most careful cleaning of anything here. How to clean a cap →
Polyester twill
The workhorse. Holds structure, resists creasing, takes colour cleanly and consistently, and costs less than wool. It is what most structured snapbacks are made from and there is nothing wrong with that, it is the right material for the job.
Less texture than wool and less character over time.
Cotton
Soft, breathable, and does not hold structure, which is why it turns up on the unstructured shapes: bucket hats and dad hats. It also takes the most visible wear, which some people want.
Corduroy
A seasonal choice rather than a staple. Strong texture, autumn-and-winter weight, and it reads deliberately different from a standard twill cap on the shelf. Usually appears on limited runs rather than core product.
Mesh
The rear panels on a trucker. Purely functional, it is there so the back of the cap breathes.
Which to choose
Structured and hard-wearing: twill. Structured with more character: wool. Soft and packable: cotton. Warm weather: mesh-backed. Something different: corduroy, when it appears.
FAQ
What are Paper Planes hats made of?
It varies by silhouette and release, wool and wool blends on structured fitteds, polyester twill on most snapbacks, cotton on the unstructured shapes. Each product page lists its own composition.
Is wool or twill better for a cap?
Neither is better. Wool has more texture and ages more interestingly; twill holds structure, resists creasing and costs less.
Why are bucket hats cotton?
Because they are unstructured. Cotton is soft and breathable and does not need to hold a shape.